The drive to the mountain top to glimpse the elk is not for the faint at heart. The road is narrow, perilous and largely unpaved. The road can scarcely be labeled a road - one way and hugging the very edge of the mountain, up, up, up and winding. If a car comes down the mountain while another is going up, the two cars vie for space, wedging back and forth into the mountain side until one can pass. “One of the questions we hear most,” says Carolyn Large, volunteer member of the Elk Bugle Corp, “is about an alternate way out. There is no other way out. Back down the same road.”
The entrance road to Cataloochee Valley is a winding, gravel road that has some steep drop offs with no guard rails. The road is narrow, so drivers may be required to stop or back up their vehicles to allow on coming motorists to pass. Horse trailer traffic may be encountered on the road. Please use caution when driving on this road.
National Park Services
Once drivers reach
their destination, the waiting for elk can begin. Cars park in fields across from a line of
forest trees. As the sun moves lower in
the sky and dusk is approaching, one by one wild turkeys pop out of the forest
and into the field to forage for food.
Shortly afterwards, elk appear.
Out of nowhere, one by one, elk pop out of the forest into plain sight –
and what a sight to see, huge, majestic animals.
The Off-Road, Road
 |
| Elk and deer together in the forest |
Saving the Forest
According to Shirley Ray, volunteer member of the Elk Bugle
Corp, at the time of the dedication of the Great Smokey Mountain National Park,
over 50% of the land had been strip logged.
The people of North Carolina were able to save some of the forests by
purchasing the land back from these logging companies. Brad Free, supervisor of the volunteers for the North district park says, “One forest in particular is one of the oldest Poplar forests in the United States today. These trees have never been logged and are
over 500-years old. Visitors to the park
can hike up the old Caldwell trail to see the trees. There is no road leading there.”
 |
| #17, a relocated Elk that is collared and monitored. |
"If the park had not been designated it would be privately owned by now-full of Wal-Marts and McDonalds." - Shirley Ray
Cultural History
Brad Free claims
his passion for the Great Smokey Mountain National Park is also his concern for
the park. “The park is rich in natural
resources; they are very, very strong.
But every season, every year a lot of the [settlers] history is eroding
away. I think the longer we go we’re
losing a lot of evidence of the people who lived here at one time. The challenge,” says Free, “is to get more
people working [volunteering] in the park who have an interest in the people
and its history so we can at least pass it down through oral history, through
some of our guided walks and talks.”
Many of the volunteers trained under the supervision of Brad Free, are somehow connected to the park. Shirley Ray worked in the Waynesville, North Carolina area and hiked the mountains’ park trails through-out her life. Shirley joined the volunteer staff shortly after retiring and had planned to do so for years.
Animal Resources
“While I was still working, I would read in
the papers about a study being done to see if elk could be reintroduced into
the Smokey Mountains,” says Ray. The
Rocky Mountain Elk foundation began the study in 1990. “In 1793, the settlers killed the last
Eastern Elk in North Carolina. That
species is now extinct,” says Ray. “The Rocky Mountain Elk are similar, but are
not the same species so the foundation took great care studying to learn if the
elk could survive and thrive in the Smokies.”
The study found that the Cataloochee valley would be an ideal place to reintroduce
elk to the Great Smokies. Shirley Ray
retired and joined the Elk Bugle Corp, the group of volunteers dedicated to
keeping the elk safe and the public educated and safe.
 |
| An Elk that was born in the Cataloochee Valley and not monitored. |
Other animals
have been reintroduced to the area, according to Brad Free. “Several species of birds, three species of
fish, otters and peregrine falcons were reintroduced and protected here in the
park. The red fox was also reintroduced
but did not survive.”
Bringing Back the Elk
The Rocky
Mountain Elk Foundation deemed Cataloochee the ideal spot to release elk and to
grow the population. “The elk need an
isolated area, a good food and water source,” said Ray. The elk would also help keep the vegetation
back. In 2001, 25 elk were brought into
the valley from the Land Between the Lakes, Kentucky.
“It was a moving
experience,” says Ray. “There were about
300 people there to release the elk.
Over 2,000 people came to watch the elk released into the pens. It was one of those crisp, crisp mornings in
February; you could see your breath. It
was an ideal morning. That was the first
time in 150 years that elk hooves touched the Cataloochee valley.”
The elk were put
into a three acre isolation pen for two months.
Each was tagged with radio frequency collars and ear tags. The next year, 27 elk were brought from
Alberto, Canada. Today, only half of
the original herd survives, but there are 140 elk all together. The
Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation continued their study for ten years after which
the superintendent of the Great Smokey Mountain National Park declared the elk
a viable herd; “which means they are
here to stay. Otherwise, they could have
been removed,” states Ray.
Baby Elk Being Born
Visitors to the Park
The North
district of the park sees nearly 5,000 visitors per day, according to Brad
Free. “Our volunteers give guided walks
and talks, maintain the trails, and basically try to keep people safe. We have black bears here, elk, turkeys,
otters and other wildlife. This is not a
petting zoo so sometimes we have to intervene to keep people and animals safe.""
 |
| Carolyn Large, volunteer ranger, Elk Corp. |
Carolyn Large, a member of the volunteer Elk Bugle Corp, says she sees approximately 200 people per day in the little Cataloochee area of the park. "People take the drive up here just to see the elk. Once you get up to the main reserve, people are allowed to park their cars and watch the fields. As the sun starts to go down, visitors can look towards the forest at the edge of the fields and see wild turkey's start to show their heads. The turkeys pop out of the forest first and into the fields where they search for food. Once you see the turkeys, you know the elk will be next. On a good day, visitors can see twenty to twenty-five elk come out of the forest to graze," claims Large. "Our challenge is to keep the people safe. We have to
maintain a distance between the people and the elk. These are wild animals,” says Large. "We also keep watch for black bear. We see them often especially when there are
cubs nearby."
 |
| Jeep of the volunteer rangers, with elk antlers. |
When we report for our shifts," says Large, "we grab a pair of elk antlers, throw them into the back of the jeep, and then drive throughout the park to educate people and to maintain order. The antlers are a great talking point we use as a reason to stop and chat with people. We can see if they are maintaining park rules up close this way. We have to ensure the people and the animals stay a safe distance apart."
"The problem is, people see it as a petting zoo. These are not docile animals!"
- Carolyn Large
Elk Bugling Video
"I was real proud of Pete Walker. He’s a ranger here on the park,” says Shirley Ray. “As a volunteer, our primary purpose is to educate and to be an extension of the rangers. We report problems to the rangers and they have authority to ticket people. I saw a woman feeding apples to elk. When I told her you’re not supposed to feed the animals, she didn’t see it as a problem. These animals weigh 700-900 pounds and can run 35 miles per hour – they are dangerous. Pete Walker gave her a ticket for three things: approaching the animals, feeding the animals, and harassing the animals,” states Ray. “People don’t understand these animals are not docile.”
FAQ'S
How can I get information to plan my trip to the park?
Download a copy of the Smokies Trip Planner. The trip planner features information about favorite park destinations and popular activities—such as hiking, auto touring, and camping—and includes a park map. It lists phone numbers for information about accommodations in communities surrounding the park, and includes a selection of books and guides you can purchase to help make your visit more enjoyable.
Does the park have cabins for
rent?
There are campgrounds in the park, but there are no motels or rental cabins within Great Smoky Mountains National Park with the exception of Le Conte Lodge. The lodge is located on the summit of Mt. Le Conte and is accessible only by hiking. Le Conte Lodge requires reservations, which you can make by calling (865) 429-5704. more...
Where can I camp in the park?
The park offers 10 developed campgrounds for RVs and tent campers. Campsites for large groups are also available in many campgrounds. more...
Backpackers may stay in campsites and
shelters in the park's backcountry. A permit is required for all overnight
stays in the backcountry and advance reservations are required for all
shelters and many campsites. more...
What is the weather like?
To listen to the park's current weather forecast, dial (865) 436-1200 extension 630. When planning a trip in the park, remember that elevations in the park range from approximately 875 feet to 6,643 feet and temperatures can vary 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit from mountain base to top. Prior planning and weather-wise clothing will help ensure an enjoyable visit during any time of the year. more...
Can I bring my pet to the
park?
Pets are allowed in campgrounds, picnic areas, parking areas, and along roads, but must be kept on a leash at all times. The leash must not exceed 6 feet in length. Pets are only allowed on two short walking paths--the Gatlinburg Trail and the Oconaluftee River Trail. Pets are not allowed on any other park trails. more...
Where can I ride my bike in
the park?
The park allows bicycling on any park road that is open to vehicle traffic. Biking on trails is prohibited. more....
Where can I fish in the park?
Fishing is permitted in most streams year-round in the park. Detailed information, including a complete list of regulations and a map of fishable park waters, is available at any visitor center or ranger station. more...
Where can I rent horses in
the park?
Horseback riding by the hour is available from mid-March through late November at four stables in the park.more...
Where can I picnic in the
park?
Picnic areas are located at Big Creek, Chimneys, Cades Cove, Collins Creek, Cosby, Deep Creek, Greenbrier, Heintooga, Look Rock, Metcalf Bottoms, and Twin Creeks. more... Ranger-led programs are scheduled in spring, summer, and fall. Check the Schedule of Events for program listings and other special events such as Music of the Mountains, the Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage, the Mountain Life Festival, and the Festival of Christmas Past. more... |
Map of the park
