The drive to the mountain top to glimpse the elk is not for the faint at heart.  The road is narrow, perilous and largely unpaved. The road can scarcely be labeled a road - one way and hugging the very edge of the mountain, up, up, up and winding.    If a car comes down the mountain while another is going up, the two cars vie for space, wedging back and forth into the mountain side until one can pass.   “One of the questions we hear most,” says Carolyn Large, volunteer member of the Elk Bugle Corp, “is about an alternate way out.  There is no other way out.  Back down the same road.”

The entrance road to Cataloochee Valley is a winding, gravel road that has some steep drop offs with no guard rails. The road is narrow, so drivers may be required to stop or back up their vehicles to allow on coming motorists to pass. Horse trailer traffic may be encountered on the road. Please use caution when driving on this road. 

 National Park Services

Once drivers reach their destination, the waiting for elk can begin.  Cars park in fields across from a line of forest trees.  As the sun moves lower in the sky and dusk is approaching, one by one wild turkeys pop out of the forest and into the field to forage for food.  Shortly afterwards, elk appear.  Out of nowhere, one by one, elk pop out of the forest into plain sight – and what a sight to see, huge, majestic animals.  

(Plan your trip to Cataloochee)

The Off-Road, Road

Elk and deer together in the forest

The original road to the valley was cut by bison roaming the land in the 1700’s.  Later the road was further cut by elk and deer.  Then, the Cherokee Indians started to widen the path to get their wagons through. Eventually, the white settlers cut this mere path/road into a more passable road.  They even charged a toll for the upkeep of the road.  A single horse with one rider was charged eighteen cents, according to Cataloochee historian, Ann Clayton.  "The road opened up the pathway for settlers to buy and sell livestock in Tennessee; but, the road also brought in the logging companies,” claims Clayton. 

Saving the Forest



#17, a relocated Elk that is collared and monitored.

According to Shirley Ray, volunteer member of the Elk Bugle Corp, at the time of the dedication of the Great Smokey Mountain National Park, over 50% of the land had been strip logged.  The people of North Carolina were able to save some of the forests by purchasing the land back from these logging companies.  Brad Free, supervisor of the volunteers for the North district park says, “One forest in particular is one of the oldest Poplar forests in the United States today.  These trees have never been logged and are over 500-years old.  Visitors to the park can hike up the old Caldwell trail to see the trees.  There is no road leading there.”    

"If the park had not been designated it would be privately owned by now-full of Wal-Marts and McDonalds." - Shirley Ray

Cultural History

Brad Free claims his passion for the Great Smokey Mountain National Park is also his concern for the park.  “The park is rich in natural resources; they are very, very strong.  But every season, every year a lot of the [settlers] history is eroding away.  I think the longer we go we’re losing a lot of evidence of the people who lived here at one time.  The challenge,” says Free, “is to get more people working [volunteering] in the park who have an interest in the people and its history so we can at least pass it down through oral history, through some of our guided walks and talks.” 

Many of the volunteers trained under the supervision of Brad Free, are somehow connected to the park.  Shirley Ray worked in the Waynesville, North Carolina area and hiked the mountains’ park trails through-out her life.  Shirley joined the volunteer staff shortly after retiring and had planned to do so for years.

Animal Resources

 “While I was still working, I would read in the papers about a study being done to see if elk could be reintroduced into the Smokey Mountains,” says Ray.     The Rocky Mountain Elk foundation began the study in 1990.  “In 1793, the settlers killed the last Eastern Elk in North Carolina.  That species is now extinct,” says Ray.   “The Rocky Mountain Elk are similar, but are not the same species so the foundation took great care studying to learn if the elk could survive and thrive in the Smokies.”  The study found that the Cataloochee valley would be an ideal place to reintroduce elk to the Great Smokies.  Shirley Ray retired and joined the Elk Bugle Corp, the group of volunteers dedicated to keeping the elk safe and the public educated and safe. 

An Elk that was born in the Cataloochee
Valley and not monitored.

(Wildlife Viewing)

Other animals have been reintroduced to the area, according to Brad Free.  “Several species of birds, three species of fish, otters and peregrine falcons were reintroduced and protected here in the park.  The red fox was also reintroduced but did not survive.”

Bringing Back the Elk

The Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation deemed Cataloochee the ideal spot to release elk and to grow the population.  “The elk need an isolated area, a good food and water source,” said Ray.  The elk would also help keep the vegetation back.  In 2001, 25 elk were brought into the valley from the Land Between the Lakes, Kentucky. 

“It was a moving experience,” says Ray.  “There were about 300 people there to release the elk.  Over 2,000 people came to watch the elk released into the pens.  It was one of those crisp, crisp mornings in February; you could see your breath.  It was an ideal morning.  That was the first time in 150 years that elk hooves touched the Cataloochee valley.”

The elk were put into a three acre isolation pen for two months.  Each was tagged with radio frequency collars and ear tags.  The next year, 27 elk were brought from Alberto, Canada.   Today, only half of the original herd survives, but there are 140 elk all together.   The Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation continued their study for ten years after which the superintendent of the Great Smokey Mountain National Park declared the elk a viable herd;   “which means they are here to stay.  Otherwise, they could have been removed,” states Ray. 

Baby Elk Being Born

Visitors to the Park

The North district of the park sees nearly 5,000 visitors per day, according to Brad Free.  “Our volunteers give guided walks and talks, maintain the trails, and basically try to keep people safe.  We have black bears here, elk, turkeys, otters and other wildlife.  This is not a petting zoo so sometimes we have to intervene to keep people and animals safe.""

Carolyn Large, volunteer ranger, Elk Corp.

Carolyn Large, a member of the volunteer Elk Bugle Corp, says she sees approximately 200 people per day in the little Cataloochee area of the park. "People take the drive up here just to see the elk. Once you get up to the main reserve, people are allowed to park their cars and watch the fields. As the sun starts to go down, visitors can look towards the forest at the edge of the fields and see wild turkey's start to show their heads. The turkeys pop out of the forest first and into the fields where they search for food. Once you see the turkeys, you know the elk will be next. On a good day, visitors can see twenty to twenty-five elk come out of the forest to graze," claims Large. "Our challenge is to keep the people safe.  We have to maintain a distance between the people and the elk.  These are wild animals,” says Large.  "We also keep watch for black bear.  We see them often especially when there are cubs nearby."

Jeep of the volunteer rangers, with elk antlers.

When we report for our shifts," says Large, "we grab a pair of elk antlers, throw them into the back of the jeep, and then drive throughout the park to educate people and to maintain order. The antlers are a great talking point we use as a reason to stop and chat with people. We can see if they are maintaining park rules up close this way. We have to ensure the people and the animals stay a safe distance apart."   

"The problem is, people see it as a petting zoo. These are not docile animals!"

- Carolyn Large

Elk Bugling  Video

"I was real proud of Pete Walker.  He’s a ranger here on the park,” says Shirley Ray.   “As a volunteer, our primary purpose is to educate and to be an extension of the rangers.  We report problems to the rangers and they have authority to ticket people.  I saw a woman feeding apples to elk.  When I told her you’re not supposed to feed the animals, she didn’t see it as a problem.   These animals weigh 700-900 pounds and can run 35 miles per hour – they are dangerous.  Pete Walker gave her a ticket for three things: approaching the animals, feeding the animals, and harassing the animals,” states Ray.  “People don’t understand these animals are not docile.”

FAQ'S

How can I get information to plan my trip to the park? Download a copy of the Smokies Trip Planner. The trip planner features information about favorite park destinations and popular activities—such as hiking, auto touring, and camping—and includes a park map. It lists phone numbers for information about accommodations in communities surrounding the park, and includes a selection of books and guides you can purchase to help make your visit more enjoyable. Does the park have cabins for rent? There are campgrounds in the park, but there are no motels or rental cabins within Great Smoky Mountains National Park with the exception of Le Conte Lodge. The lodge is located on the summit of Mt. Le Conte and is accessible only by hiking. Le Conte Lodge requires reservations, which you can make by calling (865) 429-5704. more... Where can I camp in the park? The park offers 10 developed campgrounds for RVs and tent campers. Campsites for large groups are also available in many campgrounds. more... Horse riders may camp in the park's 5 horse camps. Advance reservations are required. more... Backpackers may stay in campsites and shelters in the park's backcountry. A permit is required for all overnight stays in the backcountry and advance reservations are required for all shelters and many campsites. more... What is the weather like? To listen to the park's current weather forecast, dial (865) 436-1200 extension 630.  When planning a trip in the park, remember that elevations in the park range from approximately 875 feet to 6,643 feet and temperatures can vary 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit from mountain base to top. Prior planning and weather-wise clothing will help ensure an enjoyable visit during any time of the year. more... Can I bring my pet to the park?  Pets are allowed in campgrounds, picnic areas, parking areas, and along roads, but must be kept on a leash at all times. The leash must not exceed 6 feet in length. Pets are only allowed on two short walking paths--the Gatlinburg Trail and the Oconaluftee River Trail. Pets are not allowed on any other park trails. more... Where can I ride my bike in the park? The park allows bicycling on any park road that is open to vehicle traffic. Biking on trails is prohibited. more.... Where can I fish in the park?  Fishing is permitted in most streams year-round in the park. Detailed information, including a complete list of regulations and a map of fishable park waters, is available at any visitor center or ranger station. more... Where can I rent horses in the park? Horseback riding by the hour is available from mid-March through late November at four stables in the park.more... Where can I picnic in the park?  Picnic areas are located at Big Creek, Chimneys, Cades Cove, Collins Creek, Cosby, Deep Creek, Greenbrier, Heintooga, Look Rock, Metcalf Bottoms, and Twin Creeks. more... When are ranger-led programs offered? Ranger-led programs are scheduled in spring, summer, and fall. Check the Schedule of Events for program listings and other special events such as Music of the Mountains, the Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage, the Mountain Life Festival, and the Festival of Christmas Past. more... Can I hold my wedding or other special event in the park? Weddings and other special events require a permit and must follow specific guidelines. Please call (828) 497-1930 for permit information.

Map of the park